Day 12 – Wednesday, August 7 – Le Pin de la Plage to Le Verou – 19km
This place is so nice, and the food is so good, I thought for sure the price in my book was going to be wrong again. Breakfast had an amazing fruit salad with every fruit you could think of. 12 different preserves to choose from. Brioche that kind of disappeared when you tried to eat it. Little ham and cheese sandwiches and cheese sandwiches. And of course, hot chocolate. I was definitely in danger of eating too much, so I didn’t get to try all of the preserves.
But when I went to pay, it was only 40 E, special pilgrim price. Totally worth it.
It started raining during breakfast, but had stopped by the time I got started. I was hoping it would hold off, but it didn’t for long. It was a long climb out, and the rain started when I got to the top of the hill. I put the shower caps on my feet, but it was awkward because I couldn’t sit and it was already raining. They did work pretty well for a while, but they were pretty well shredded within 4 hours. But I’d say they will work well for a heavy rain storm. The problem is not knowing when the heaviest rain will be.
The ladies at breakfast said I should wait and walk on Thursday because it wouldn’t be raining. I can’t never walk in the rain, though. That’s just not how it works. I have to walk, rain or shine.
It was an odd combination for today. I was glad I only had 19k to go, but I still couldn’t get there too early, but I didn’t want to walk slow in the rain.
I didn’t put arnica on my feet or knees last night, and I do think I can tell a difference today. My feet still did pretty well. My knees have been hurting more with the ups and downs.
The sun came out for a bit, but then it would start raining again. It rained all morning, but I think my feet stayed mostly dry. The shower caps started to rip, but they still offered protection.
I ran into two Dutch pilgrims picking raspberries. We had another conversation about how I’m going the wrong way.
I got into Les Abrets around 12:30. I was not the slightest bit hungry, but I thought it would be a good idea to sit out of the rain for a bit, and I wasn’t sure what kind of food would be available at the camping place I’m going to, so I got lunch in a dive bar. It was ravioli, and I think it was even the same raviolis that were in that tart from Ferme des razes. I was not hungry at all, so the thought of eating it even kind of turned my stomach a bit, but it was still good, and I ate it. I’m surprised I haven’t adjusted to eating lunch yet, because I’m pretty sure I usually ate lunch last time. I just don’t often get hungry while I’m walking, but I get hungry after I stop.
The rain stopped and the sun came out while I was eating lunch, so I had a nice, sunny walk the last few kilometers to the camp ground.
Checking in right before me was a Swiss guy named Freddie who is biking from Geneva to Le Puy. So far we are the only two people in the dormitory. I hope he doesn’t snore. I haven’t really had to share a room with anyone yet, so I’ve been sleeping very well. I remember lack of sleeping being an issue in Spain, so I often paid more for my own room.
I was trying to look ahead more for things to book. The really expensive hotel in Bonne seems like my only choice. It was only like $104 yesterday on booking, and I should have just booked it. Today it was $122. I decided to try to delete the cache and see if that made a difference, but I kind of messed things up. I deleted the app, but the WiFi is super bad, and I sat in the reception area for over an hour and a half and it only downloaded halfway, and then it stopped. I didn’t want to waste any more time. Hopefully I’ll get a better WiFi signal in the next few days, because I really need that app back. Not a smart choice.
This campground is called “le coin tranquille,” but it’s a pretty hoppin’ place. Apparently they have a lot of Dutch visitors. While I was waiting in the reception, the guy was speaking Dutch with a lot of patrons who came in. He also speaks English and French. It must be really handy in Europe to know more than two languages.
I had a lady help me make some more reservations. We tried calling one place several times but they didn’t answer. At one point later, the guy answered the phone and I heard him say “Elizabet” and it kind of sounded like he was making a reservation. I should have just asked him, because it turns out he was. I asked him later to try again with the reservation and he said they had seen the missed calls and called to find out why. Apparently the other lady had written down enough information that he knew it was a reservation and when it was for. I was very impressed.
They are having a block party bbq tonight, but they can only fit so many people, and it’s less than fit in the campground. So I had to order a pizza from the bar ahead of time. Freddie also ordered a pizza, so we ate together back at the dormitory. Freddie was a hoot. He was annoyed that his phone wasn’t working in France but mine was. I said T-Mobile is a German company, very good. I used my app to help him plan his route, because he really didn’t have a plan.