Away from Santiago

Monday, November 16 – Day 64

I had such a hard time getting myself going today. I’m so glad it wasn’t also raining.

I ate breakfast right at 8:30 and was checking out right at 9. I left a box with stuff I’m not carrying to the coast, and it does include my sleeping bag. I’m taking a bit of a risk, but I don’t think it’s a very big one. I’m confident I won’t need it.

The camino Finisterre leaves right from the square in front of the church. It wasn’t hard to find. It did feel very, very odd though, to be walking away from Santiago. Every step was an effort. I seriously probably spent most of the day thinking about getting a taxi. I hoped, though, that if I just got myself moving that I would eventually feel better. In a way, yes, but in a way, no. Going up the hills seemed more difficult. My legs felt stiff, and my feet hurt as much as ever. I would really, really like to spend a day walking without foot pain. I don’t know if it’s even possible. Will my feet ever be the same again?

Shortly after leaving Santiago I had an unfortunate experience. I was still kind of in “the suburbs” of Santiago. Maybe one or two little towns over. I met a little old man coming down the hill, so I said hello, just like always. He stopped, so it was obvious he wanted to talk. I stopped too, but told him I didn’t know any Spanish. He asked if I was alone and if I was married, and he also tried to give me a piece of candy. I said no, then was trying to think of how to be polite and say goodbye. I waved, and he put out his hand, so I was thinking, ok, I’ll shake his hand, that will be polite. And then once he had my hand, he wanted a kiss! I said no, and he reached out and touched my face with his other hand. I just left. No more trying to be polite.

Most little old men have been very nice, and not at all in a creepy kind of way. I will be more cautious of little old men, now, and I won’t let them get within arms length!

It wasn’t horribly disturbing, but it didn’t help things either.

It seemed like there were an awful lot of hills today, and also a lot more road walking than I would have liked. When I felt like I was getting close to where I was going, I started having a shooting pain down the back of my leg, like a pinched nerve. I hope that’s just temporary.

I was catching up to some pilgrims ahead, and it turned out to be Aldo and crew. The other 3, Monique, Len, and Aiya, had decided to go to the coast as well.

We stopped at the place I had decided to stay to get lunch. Walking, for me, tends to be an appetite suppressant, but then when I stop walking, I get very hungry. So when I’m walking, and I pass a grocery store, I tend to not stop, because I’m not hungry yet, even though I know I will be. I haven’t done as well with carrying food with me in Spain.

They all got sandwiches, and I got one too, but I didn’t realize how hungry I was until I started eating. I also felt a lot better after eating. I think one of the reasons why I had such a hard time walking today is because I didn’t eat very well the day before. It really does make a difference.

They decided to go on to the next albergue on the way out of town, which is another 700m or so. Tomorrow is a long day, so they wanted to help make it as short as possible. I have to stay here, because this is where the private rooms are.

I went to the grocery and got some food for tomorrow. Hopefully if I have some food with me, tomorrow will be easier. It’s also supposed to rain tomorrow.

Unfortunately the bed is pretty hard. I’d gotten used to having a decent bed again.

I am feeling better about tomorrow. If I can make it through tomorrow, then I just have one day to Muxia.

I went down for dinner at 7, and everyone was back again! They didn’t have food, and this was one of the only places in town open.

There was a large group of 9, so it was rather fun. I got the spaghetti, salmon, and ice cream. The spaghetti was over cooked, but the salmon was divine.

After we’d been sitting for about 15 minutes, Nat and Barry walked in! I had been wondering if I would ever see them again. They were walking back from the coast. They had arrived in Santiago on Tuesday, and had already done Muxia and Finisterre. I definitely do not want to walk back to Santiago!! You could probably pay me to do it, but it would have to be enough.

It turned out to be a lovely night.



Add yours →

  1. Gorgeous photographs! WOW!

    I’m so sorry you are having so much pain. Hopefully the chiropractor will be able to help. You might also want to soak in epsom salts when you get home too. It does sound like it’s time to come home.

    Sorry about the creepy old man. Ick. I am, however, glad you were able to connect with Aldo and friends. 🙂


  2. What a cool surprise to connect with so many friends at the end!


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