Sunday, November 8 – Day 58
I think I will just have to accept that I’m not going to sleep well until I’m done, at least, I hope I’ll start sleeping better when I’m done.
There was no heating in the room, so he gave me a little space heater, that glowed bright orange and lit up the room like I was sleeping in Dante’s Inferno.
I got up, had breakfast, and was out the door by 8:30. It was another beautiful, slightly foggy day in the canyon.
Last night Matthew had mentioned the really old castle on top of the hill, and I remembered to look for it today. It would be cool to go up there and see it.
The path wound through the valley floor, until it started going up, up, up. It was definitely a strenuous hike. It was also very beautiful.
The view once you got out of the trees was amazing. Unfortunately the sun was in the wrong direction.
About 4k from the top I met Donna from Canada, and walked with her for a while. She’s on a year sabbatical from teaching music to young children. They have a program where you can take 80% of your pay for 4 years and then get a 5th year off. She decided to do it to coincide with her 60th.
Part of the way up the mountain we passed a marker that said we were officially in Galicia. I don’t think I’ve mentioned it before, but in Castilian Spanish, the C, when it makes a soft sound, is pronounced with a “th” instead of an “s”. So “gracias” is actually “grathias”. The same is true for Galicia. Galithia. It’s very easy when you already have a little lisp.
O’Cebreiro is a tiny little village on the saddle between two mountains. It was very, very windy up there. The little church was built in the 9th century.
I’d heard that O’Cebreiro had good pulpo (octopus) so we found a place to get some. Galician octopus! It was delicious.
I think it’s funny that Galicia has so much seafood up in the mountains.
It was 12:30 after having the octopus snack and I still had a ways I wanted to go still.
There were a lot of little towns to pass through. Some people were going all the way to Triacastela, but that would be 32k for me, and with the longer days I’ve been having and with the mountain climb today, I didn’t want to go that far. I was hoping to stop in Fonfria, but the place I wanted to stay wasn’t open.
In the next town, O Biduedo, the place I wanted to stay was open, but apparently they were full, or something. My only options were the other casa rural in town, which was open, but 35 E, or to go another 6k to Triacastela. It was 4 pm and I decided not to push it. I’d already gone farther than I wanted to.
I’m in a bit of a tough spot because from where I am, it’s 5 very long days to Santiago, or 6 easier days. Having that extra day there would be really nice… I guess I’ll see how I feel tomorrow and maybe the next day. I have some different possibilities reserved, but the last day I can cancel is the 12th, so I need to decide pretty soon. I should know for sure in 2 days.
Unfortunately, I think there are less opportunities for private rooms, so the quality of sleep over those days could be a factor, too.
Also unfortunately, the bed here is pretty hard. Hopefully I will be able to sleep well enough.
I’m really not impressed with this place. The people aren’t very friendly, or helpful. There was no choice on the meal, which was fine. Soup with noodles, steak, and Santiago cake.
After dinner I went back to my room and the heat still wasn’t on. I went back and asked when it would be on, and they said it already was on. I said it definitely wasn’t. She said it would be on in two minutes. About an hour later it did come on, thankfully. For 35 E I should definitely get heat! I am looking forward to being out of here.