Wednesday, October 28 – Day 48
The bed was memory foam again. I didn’t sleep great, but I didn’t sleep badly.
The Germans got up and left early. I started waking up around 7, got all packed, said goodbye to Claire, and was on my way by 8:15.
It was raining lightly, but with a driving headwind that made things very cold and difficult. Thankfully the rain didn’t last long, so I didn’t get very wet, but the wind continued.
I left town without eating, even though I was already hungry. I figured I would find breakfast in the next town, which was 8k away. I made good time, even with the headwind, getting there as the church struck 10. Unfortunately, I was not thrilled with the way the town looked, and nowhere looked inviting enough for me to stay. I continued another 6k to Fromista, where I did find some very nice food.
There was an old church in town that had an open door, so I went inside to find that you had to pay to get in. For pilgrims it was 1 E, but I did get a stamp to go with it. It’s an 11th century church, built around 1066. It has been restored, though, and I’m curious about the capitals, because they seem to be in very good condition. I really liked the architecture of the church, though.
I found the camino and headed out of town. This part ran along side another road. I kept my poncho on and it rained off and on all day. The wind was relentless, flapping my poncho and plastering my skirt to my legs. It was cold and tiring, fighting against the wind. I had thought maybe I might make it to Carrion de los Condes, but that was over 33k. Maybe if I’d had a tailwind. I started shooting for Villacazar de Sirga, which was just over 27k. I decided that a cold, windy, rainy walk deserved a reward of a single room again, although, it doesn’t take much to reward myself with a single room. It’s almost a necessity.
2k before I got into Villalcazar, I decided to take my poncho off. It wasn’t raining, and it was hard to tell if it was actually hindering me with the wind resistance or not. It was definitely colder without it. It had also helped to block the wind. Less than 1k before town it started raining again, and it was the hardest rain of the day. I had to put my poncho back on, and I got very wet. I had almost made it. Another 15 minutes and I would have survived the day fairly dry.
The first place I went to was full, but my phone service had stopped working, so I couldn’t find the other place in my google maps. I walked around for a bit and found it. Luckily it was 10 E cheaper than it said in my book. Maybe because it’s the off season?
I probably could have walked another 6k to the next town, but I didn’t want to, and I really didn’t need to. I’m still on schedule for being able to go to Finisterre. I have sheets on the bed, heaters that are turned on, and hopefully wifi that works in the bar (it doesn’t work in the room).
When I left Claire this morning, she apologized for the drama of the previous day and said, “but it’s my camino,” and I said, “it’s my camino, too.” Our caminos might be different, but that doesn’t mean they’re totally separate. I am so glad I was able to be there for her yesterday. If there is anything I know something about, it’s extreme exhaustion. I also know how to take rest days! I got a message from her earlier saying she felt great and was having a wonderful day. I’m so glad.
I went to look at the church. This one also cost money.
Dinner was spaghetti, veal, and ice cream.
Right as I got my ice cream, Martinus from Lithuania came and asked if he could sit with me. I was already done, so I sat with him while he ate his dinner. He walked 52k today. He had started walking with some people, then “got distracted” in Pamplona and went to Barcelona for a week. Now he’s back and trying to catch up with them, so he’s walking 40-50k every day. They’re only 32k ahead at the moment, so he will catch up tomorrow or the next day.
He said he’s learned that he likes people. He thought he didn’t like people, but now he knows he just doesn’t like crowds. He likes people and he doesn’t like being alone. I am still as much of an introvert as always. No surprises on the Camino for me there.
So, that must be the Rain in Spain that I’ve heard tell of.
52K in a day! Whoa. That sounds… exhausting. (Martinus is almost Doug’s middle name!)
I bet you do learn quickly how much you enjoy solitude vs being in constant company. I think I prefer one-on-one or small group interactions compared to large groups.